clc pax 20
Building Our Own Kayak
Chesapeake Light Craft
Pax 20 Kayak
Fast  Fitness  Racing

clc pax 20 fast
clc pax 20 wrapping
clc pax 20 unique paint job
clc pax 20 primer
clc pax 20 more primer
clc pax 20 drilling
clc pax 20 sanding
clc pax 20 fitting
clc pax 20 chiseling
clc pax 20 more wrapping
clc pax 20 rolling
clc pax 20 anchored
clc pax 20 day hatch
clc pax 20 clamping
clc pax 20 more clamping

This was the first kayak we ever built; a special Winter '05/'06 project.

The Chesapeake Light Craft Pax 20 is a fast boat. I will have to get myself "trained up" to the hull speed of this kayak!

She doesn't like to turn in a static position; I edge her steeply and do a sort of forward sweep high brace.

But, while underway she turns nicely with a little edging, as you can see here.

She rolls nice! But, with the very high angle fore deck at the
cockpit; I had to build up the closed cell foam knee brace with a
little ridge prevent the knee from slipping while bracing and hip

Notice the position of the rear hatch cover. I can access the
rear compartment while sitting in the cockpit.

Here she is anchored fore and aft. For anchors I use little net
bags with a rock or two that I find on the beach. 

A lot of sanding is involved in building a kayak! It was fun.

Taking special care that the deck will fit perfectly.

We didn't put in a skeg and we changed the position of the rear
hatch cover. So, we added two more deck beams in the rear
using left over shear clamp material.

Here I am cutting and chiseling a slot for the deck's King Plank
in the rear epoxy pour.

Instead of using the 4" deck plate that was supplied; we used
an 8" plate in our forward bulkhead and designed a handle
using 3/4" PVC. I now have enough storage capacity to go

I epoxied on VERY STRONG foot pegs. I didn't want any
unsightly bolts protruding through the hull. Shown are the
mounts for the pegs which are 3" x 3" and padded with 3/4"

To hold the deck in place while the epoxy set, we decided to
wrap her. We used clothes line at about 2" centers.

And we used standard kayak straps at the hard points of
bulkheads and deck beam. We needed a few clamps in the
cockpit area.

Gluing up the coaming was clamp challenging.

Most of my clamps were an inexpensive type...I'll spend the
money for good clamps the next time!

For all of my screw holes; I took the advice from the CLC boat
builders and "drilled, glued, and re-drilled". So, I drilled 1/4",
then epoxied and sanded and then drilled screw hole into the

The primer is all done; three nice coats.

Right now the epoxy in the cockpit looks good but, it will need
some good varnish with UV protectors. I used Schooner High

There she is all painted with a very unique color scheme and
waiting to be outfitted with some deck lines, seat, and knee and
thigh braces.

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